Failing Paint on Windows

Another cause of peeling paint on window frames is a break down of the existing coat of paint. If paint failure is not caused by moisture, it will surely fail with age. Sunlight is a harsh enemy of a painted surface, with ultra-violet rays breaking down the protective resins in paint.

The paint then cracks, eventually peeling from the surface exposing the bare wood exposed, which will eventually dry rot, or become "dozy." A good test is to take a pencil, depress lightly on the wood; “dozy” wood is soft.

Regardless of the cause of paint break down, overtime the result is the same: rotten wood. If not repaired in time, failed paint will offer little or no protection to window frames, and the unprotected wood will eventually rot. Therefore, it is important to repair peeling paint as soon as possible.

If left unattended, rotten wood can not be repaired. The deteriorated wood must be replaced, and this can be quite costly. Depending on the construction of your windows, sometimes the entire window must be replaced.

Fortunately, Excel-Tech Painting can nip most wood rot problems in the bud, saving significant repair bills down the road.

The Solution:
Our crew begins by preparing all windows thoroughly, before applying any paint. The first step in this preparation is to scrape all loose paint from the window frames. We use long handled scrapers or, tough wire brushes, and plenty of elbow grease.

Once the loose paint is removed, we will sand the rough edges with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper in order to smooth them as much as possible. Marks may be noticeable when we are done, but they will not be pronounced. Once we have removed the loose paint and smoothed the surface, we will thoroughly wash the window frame. If at this time the wood is still damp from moisture, we may need to leave it for a day or two to dry.

Once dry, we will spot prime any bare wood. This seals the wood providing an ideal surface for adhesion of the finish coat. To avoid future moisture problems, all cracks and joints will be thoroughly caulked, and all failing putty will be removed and replaced. By attending to the preparation in this manner, we have ensured that all entry points for water have been sealed, and that future moisture problems are very unlikely.

Once these steps have been completed, we are ready to paint. It would be foolish to go to all this effort, and then apply a low quality paint, so our finish coat will be of the highest quality paint available. It will contain top quality resins and pigments, and have additives to prevent chalking, fading, mildew and fungal growth. If you are not changing colours, it is likely that one coat will be sufficient.

Why do we go to such lengths to prepare and paint your windows! Simple. We want your paint job to last. We guarantee all our workmanship and materials for three full years. Should any paint peel, bubble, or blister, Excel-Tech Painting will return to your home and fix it for free.

When Excel-Tech Painting has painted your home, you can rest assured that your windows are painted to last, and that any wood rot problems and expensive repairs have been avoided. We guarantee it.

Rusty Nails Bleeding Through Paint

Unsightly stains often occur after a metal nail has been painted. This is the result of improper preparation. If any amount of moisture is present at the time of painting, and sealed under the surface once paint has dried, the metal nail will rust, and the rust stain will bleed through the paint. Simply painting over the affected area will yield the same result, and an apparently good paint job will be spotted again within a few months.

At Excel-Tech, we do not want to waste your money for only a few months of aesthetic pleasure. We will fix the problem at the root.

The Solution:
Wherever a rusty nail is apparent, we will

• scrape down to the bare nail head
• scuff the metal, usually with a wire brush or steel wool
• once a shiny surface is evident, we will prime the nail head with red chromate primer or a stain blocking primer to prevent any future bleeding

Once this step has been taken, the surface is ready for the top coat.

When we finish our work, your home will be free of rusty nails bleeding through the finish coat. The surface will look uniform and fresh. Most importantly, you can rest assured the dollars you spend on your home will not diminish in lustre, because we have solved your problem of recurring rust spots.

Wood Knots Bleeding Through Paint

Much like rusty nails, unsightly stains often occur after a wood knot has been painted. This is the result of sap from the wood bleeding, and their natural resins staining the top coat of paint. Simply painting over the affected area will yield the same result, and an apparently good paint job will be spotted again within a few months. Excel-Tech fixes the root cause of the problem.

The Solution:
Wherever a wood knot is apparent, we seal it such that it can not reappear. This is accomplished by lightly sanding the stained area, and applying either a coat of shellac or aluminum based primer. Even though we can not stop the natural resins in wood from bleeding through, we can provide a barrier so they can not reach the top coat of paint. Once applied, these products ensure that unsightly wood knots are "hidden" once and for all.

Once the knot has been sealed, the surface is ready for the top coat. When we finish our work, your home will be free of unsightly wood knots. The surface will look uniform and fresh. Most importantly, you can rest assured the dollars you spend on your home will not diminish in lustre, because we have solved your problem of recurring wood knots. 

Dull and Cloudy Finish On Aluminum Siding

A dull or cloudy appearance on aluminum siding is not uncommon. Although aluminum siding lasts indefinitely, the factory finish on the siding is paint, and therefore susceptible to climactic conditions. The primary failure of this factory finish is chalking. This is an actual breakdown of the paint's finish. It is caused by the sun's ultra-violet rays, which, over time, break down the protective resins in the paint. As the resins break down, the pigment is exposed, leaving a dusty or chalky film.

You may notice stains on the brick below your siding. These are a result of rain washing the exposed pigment fibres from the siding, and depositing them on the brick below. You may also notice that when you rub your hand across your siding you are left with a dust or chalk film on your hand. These both are evidence that the factory finish on your aluminum siding has weathered, the resin is broken down, and just the pigment remains. If left long enough, all the resin and pigment will be "washed away," leaving only a metal surface.

Fortunately the siding does not need to be replaced. It can be refurbished quite simply with paint. We cannot, however, paint directly over the chalked surface. This would result in extensive peeling, as the new coat of paint has nothing substantial to adhere to. Simply stated, paint can not stick to a dusty surface.

The Solution:
Your crew from Excel-Tech will prepare your siding before we apply the finish coat. Preparation will consist of a thorough wash. This is done with scrub brush and buckets, using trisodium phosphate (TSP) or a more environmentally friendly alternative on especially dirty areas. Our crew chief will ensure that all exposed pigment is removed before any paint is applied. Should any of the factory applied paint have washed off to bare aluminum, we will spot prime those areas to maximize adhesion and coverage of the finish coat.

If you are not changing colour, generally one finish coat will be sufficient. However, if previous chalking was severe, it may take two coats to achieve adequate coverage for appearance and protection. Once the work is completed, you can rest assured that the job will last. We guarantee it for three years, but suggest that because aluminum siding will not experience the moisture problems of conventional siding, it will last much longer.

**Warning: When recoating aluminum siding, do not paint it with a colour that is significantly darker than the original factory finish. You may paint with a lighter colour, but not darker. A darker colour will absorb more sunlight and become hotter than the siding originally did, and will therefore expand more in hotter temperatures. This expansion may cause the siding to buckle. This is inconvenient and expensive to repair.

Mildew

Since they were legislated out of use, it has become more difficult to combat mildew, and although all top line paints and stains contain anti-mildew agents, it is impossible to guarantee mildew will not recur. Mildew control has therefore become a homeowner maintenance issue.
If mildew is painted over without being treated (killed), it will recur almost immediately, eating its way through a fresh paint job.

The Solution:
We will take every precaution possible to avoid this by washing any affected area thoroughly. This washing, done by hand, is with a solution of TSP, bleach, and water. The bleach kills the mildew, and the TSP or a more environmentally friendly alternative washes away the deteriorated paint the mildew had destroyed. Although the washed surface will not look terribly clean, the bleach will have done its job, and once completely dry, the finish coat is ready to be applied. The top line of paints that Excel-Tech applies to your house contain anti-mildew agents to inhibit growth. These correct steps result, for as long a time as now possible, without mildew growth.

Garage Doors And Frames

are generally constructed from many individual components. Since these components are mostly wood, all the joints and seams must be perfectly sealed, or moisture will enter these fixtures, paint will peel, and wood rot is inevitable. Unfortunately, not all these joints are perfectly sealed, and if you have peeling paint or bare wood on your garage door or frame, you are a potential candidate for a new door, and a hefty installation fee.

At Excel-Tech, we can save your existing door and frame, and prevent costly repairs by performing some basic maintenance. Moisture generally affects the base of the frames where the wood meets the driveway and at the bottom of individual panels in the door; these are our focus areas.

If your garage door is peeling, it is clear you need repairs. If, however, there is no peeling, but when you raise your garage door, you notice water stains on the inside panels, this is evidence that the deterioration has begun. The reason water has penetrated the door is that every time you raise or lower your door, it jiggles each panel. Over time, these individual panels loosen, creating an entry point for rain water. Once through a tiny crack, water is absorbed by wood like a sponge, and the paint consequently peels. Left unattended, the wood will rot, and individual panels, if not the entire door, may need to be replaced. Similarly, at the base of the garage door frame, water has entered unsealed cracks, causing peeling.

The Solution:
We know that expensive refitting can be avoided. Wherever paint is peeling, we will scrape and sand thoroughly. After washing the door and frame, we will spot prime any bare spots. Then, the most critical function of all: caulking. Caulking will be applied to every seam and crack that is a potential entry point for water. This is what ensures the longevity of the paint job.

After all preparation is complete, and top line paints have been applied, your garage door and frame is refinished and refurbished, and repair bills are a thing of the past. We guarantee it.

Breakdown of Painted Surfaces with Many Coats of Paint

In their earlier stages, these cracks are few and far between. This is called "checking." If the coats of paint are more numerous, and the cracks are deeper, this condition is called "cracking." When there are many cracks arranged almost geometrically in high concentration, this is called "alligatoring," and is the most advanced stage of multiple coat breakdown.

All of these conditions are potential causes of wood rot, and must be repaired prior to the application of the finish coat. If they are not repaired, the fresh coat of paint will assume the existing cracks, and even though your home is repainted, the paint will not provide protection from the elements, specifically rain. Fortunately, Excel-Tech is able to repair checking, cracking, and alligatoring. Depending on the degree of paint breakdown, your Operator can discuss your options with you and the ability to guarantee the work.

The Solution:
The most effective solution is to remove all existing coats of paint, either by heat gun, propane torch, or with chemical strippers. Once to bare wood, it will be sanded, primed, and appropriately caulked prior to a finish coat. Unfortunately this solution is very time consuming, but will remedy the problem, and last a very long time. We guarantee it for three years. If budgetary constraints prohibit this treatment to your entire home, many clients opt for this solution in high traffic areas where aesthetic beauty is important.

In most other areas, a firm, thorough scrape will be effective, followed by a thorough sanding (often with an electric sander), and a spot prime is sufficient. It will not result in a perfectly smooth surface, as ridges in the old coats of paint will be evident, but the surface will be sealed, and your wood protected. This type of work is also guaranteed.

Unfortunately, some surfaces are "too far gone," and beyond repair. Consequently, only cosmetic repairs are possible, and we will be unable to guarantee the longevity of the paint job. Your Operator will be able to alert you to such areas if they exist on your home.

Intercoat Peeling

It is common knowledge that a dirty surface should not be painted. Sometimes, an apparently clean surface is actually dirty. There are two sources of dirt. As paint ages, it oxidizes, and water soluble chemicals sit on the surface in the form of chalks and salts. Airborne pollutants such as sulphur also settle on your house's painted surfaces. Unfortunately the falling rain does not wash your house evenly, and these chemicals remain on covered areas such as porch ceilings and soffits. If they are painted over, the film of dirt, while very thin, will not allow the fresh paint to adhere firmly to the surface, and eventual peeling is certain.

To avoid this eventuality, we will thoroughly wash all covered areas of your home. Trisodium phosphate (TSP) or an environmentally friendly alternative is necessary to break down the chalks and salts. All covered areas of your home will be scrubbed, by hand, with TSP and hosed until clean. This will guarantee a clean surface, and proper paint adhesion.

If the last time your home was painted, it was not washed properly prior to coating application, you will experience "inter-coat peeling." Beneath the peeling paint is the previous coat of paint and not bare wood. The peeling between coats is not caused by moisture, but by a lack of adhesion resulting from paint application to a dirty surface. Should the peeling coat not be removed before repainting, the next coat would peel as surely as the existing one.

The Solution:
The solution to intercoat peeling is rather simple, involving a firm scraping and sanding, a thorough TSP (or more environmentally friendly alternative) wash, and a hose down. Once dry, the top coat may be applied. Although there may be some ridges in the finish coat due to uneven peeling in the previous coat, we can assure that the fresh coat of paint will hold, and guarantee it for three years

Excel-Tech can ensure that your home will be thoroughly washed in order to avoid any unsightly intercoat peeling. We can also repair past errors, leaving a long lasting finish.

Peeling on Galvanized Metal

Paint that has been applied to a galvanized metal surface will peel for one of three reasons: either the galvanized metal was not properly primed, its grease film was not washed after it was manufactured, or, as in the case of metal eavestroughs, the metal over-expanded in winter months as water in them froze. Once bare, it is critical that exposed galvanized metal be painted, as the sun's ultra-violet rays will degenerate the galvanization, and the metal will actually rust.

The Solution:
In order to avoid the need to replace rusted eavestroughs and downspouts, we will scrape and wirebrush all loose and flaking paint. Rough edges will be sanded, generally with steel wool. The entire surface will then be washed, and, once dry, all bare areas will be primed. We will prime with a primer that is formulated specifically for galvanized metal. .

Once complete, this process will last very well, but we are unable to guarantee it as we have no control over the harsh effects of snow and ice. (Metal reacts differently in the winter than most other painted surfaces) We suggest that, with annual clearing of eavestroughs, these galvanized metal surfaces will last as long as the rest of your paint job, and replacement can be avoided. 

Paint Blisters

If you have blistering paint on your home, it is important to determine what has caused the blister.

Heat blisters are caused when paint is applied in direct sunlight or in hot weather. It is more common on dark colours, as dark colours absorb heat and light, getting hotter than lighter colours which reflect them.

Moisture blisters are caused when the sun heats the exterior wall, which draws the interior moisture through walls, trapping it beneath the exterior coat of paint. Moisture blisters indicate that the wood beneath the paint is wet, and that wood rot is not far off.

Knot blisters are caused by painting over wood knots without properly sealing them with shellac. The sun heats the knot and draws its sap to the surface, trapping it beneath the paint.

The best way to distinguish between the three types of blisters is to pop them. If a blister reveals bare wood, and no knots or sap residue are present, moisture is usually the problem. Beneath a heat blister, the previous coat of paint is visible. When a blister is properly diagnosed, the correct repair and preparation is clear.

If the appropriate preparation is not done, the blister will reappear beneath a fresh coat of paint. All blisters must be properly analyzed, and properly prepared, in order to avoid costly repairs in the future.

The Solution:
Heat blisters must be sanded, primed if a bare surface is exposed, and painted in cooler temperatures. We will not paint in direct sunlight, as this is the primary cause of heat blisters.

We will sand knot blisters to ensure that all sap is removed. Shellac and primer will be applied so the blister will not reappear.

Many times moisture blisters are brought to light by a new paint coat because the old paint coat was cracked and worn, allowing moisture to escape. Possible solutions to moisture blisters are to cut back excessive plant and shrub growth from your home to reduce moisture, identify and repair faulty roofs, caves, or windows, or install vents on exterior walls of soffits. Once the source of the moisture has been removed, moisture blisters will be scraped, sanded, and permitted to dry before they are primed and painted.

If the root cause of the blister is not solved, we will be unable to guarantee that it will not reappear. If, however, the cause of the blister is isolated, and we are certain the condition is cured, we will guarantee these repairs for three years.

Iron Fences/Metal Doors

Metal surfaces can peel, just as any wood surface can, but metal does not rot, it rusts. Apart from being unsightly, it can also leave permanent stains on nearby surfaces. Peeling may be the result of no previous use of primer, use of the wrong primer, or the application of paint directly over rust.

At Excel-Tech, we are unable to guarantee these metal surfaces, but we will do our utmost to ensure rust does not reappear for quite some time.

The Solution:
All peeling or rusting areas will be scraped and wire brushed, and any rough edges will be sanded. All bare surfaces will be primed with a primer formulated specifically to inhibit rust. The finish coat will be a top line paint.

Special Note - When painting factory coated metal doors, be aware that in the factory they are coated using a process that shoots electro-magnetic current through the paint that causes the paint to dry perfectly smooth. It is impossible to replicate this finish with brushes and rollers. 

Application of Clear Urethanes and Varnishes

Urethanes are for interior use only - varnishes are to be used outside. it must be understood that all varnishes break down quite quickly because there is no pigment to protect the surface from the suns' ultra-violet rays*. They must be recoated regularly if the varnish layer has cracked or peeled it must be stripped to bare and then re-coated with three to five coats. If the area has been left unprotected too long, any water stains may be permanent.

* There are some specialty varnish or urethane products that do contain some pigment that will, to a degree, protect the surface from ultra violet light. Please discuss these products with your Operator.